Kota – the city situated on the banks of river Chambal is not only famous for its lip smacking delicious kachoris but also famous for a number of things that mostly remain unappreciated. Being known as the ‘Education Hub’ and being famous primarily for the coaching facilities, we remain unaware of a number of other things that make this city extra special. One such unrecognized thing is a famous fabric known as Kota Doria (Doria means thread).
Kota Doria, itself gives us the illustration of its origin but according to some historians, Mysore, in Karnataka region was the first place where the art of making Kota Doria was invented. Artisans who practiced weaving this fabric were referred to as “Masurias”.
In the the mid 17th century during the Mughal era, these Masurias were brought to the town of Kota by Rao Kishore Singh of Kotah. As the Art of making the fabric was highly complex and only skilled artisans could do that, the fabric was also known as “Kota- Masuriya”, now now poopularly known as Kota Doria.
The fabric is a combination of cotton and silk. Cotton provides strength and durability, while silk ensures its softness and shine. The fabric is light, airy, comfortable and soft making it the first choice of numerous people residing in hot and humid regions.
Kaithoon, a small town in the district of Kota is the major hub of Kota Doria production. Though a few clusters of production are also found in the villages of Bundi, Baran and Kota.
The process of making the fabric starts with the preparation of the yarn followed by the preparation of the loom.
Preparation of the Yarn includes- Pirn winding, Wrapping, Dyeing, Sizing.
Preparation of the loom includes- Drafting, Denting, Piecing, Design setting and Weaving.
An eminent square pattern (known as Khats) makes the fabric more attractive and is also the patent design. But as the fabric grew popular, many designers started experimenting with the fabric and now it is produced in many shades and patterns. In the earlier days, the fabric was used for making turbans and sarees but with time it is being used in making Suits, Kurta, Lehangas, Curtains, Pouches, etc. too. In India, the Kota Doria saree is mainly worn by the women of the Marwari community.
To meet the needs of the demand of the Fabric, the use of power looms has also started over a period of 50 years. A power loom can produce approximately 20 sarees a day while it approximately takes a month or two to complete a saree on a handloom. Only a skilled and experienced person in the field of textile can differentiate the Hand loomed and the Power loomed Kota Doria. The Government has also awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) to distinguish the fabric made on handloom and Power loom.
Kota Doria is one of the finest open weave fabrics in India and the fabric being airy, light and self- woven makes it one of the most loving fabric for People living in the hot and humid regions of India.